INTRODUCTION
I very often
complain about the lack of novelty in Belgian beer. Yes, there is a tradition
and respect of the wide word. Yes, Belgians brew great traditional Belgian beer
styles like sour.
However, when
you look on development of the beer in the world in the last 5 years and
compare it to the local Belgian situation, you realize that most of the
Belgians did not know that there is some craft beer revolution going on.
I encounter
almost weekly local beer lovers who Believe that Belgian beer is the best. The
problem starts when I start to ask questions:
Why do you think
it is the best?
How do you
define the best – taste, quality?
This usually is
over for a discussion, since they have no idea. If you insist you find out that
they always drink a blonde brewed by the local brewery and may have tried a few
other from the local supermarket. IPA – I have tried one and don’t like it.
Which one did you have? Leffe…
No wonder, Leffe
IPA is one of the worst beers I have ever had and by blind tasting I would
never say its IPA.
One important
thing to say – there is a significant difference between the south and the north
of Belgium. South of Belgium is even more conservative what I have described
above. North is way more open. Most of interesting Belgian beers in the last
years came from Brussels or north of it. Best beer festivals are in the north.
There are some
signs that the situation is changing also in the south. great Beer Market in La
Louviere (www.beer-market.be) is
building a local community around its variety of beer styles from different
countries. I have recently tested a Barley Wine from the brewery in the south.
Maybe, one-day Belgium will again be a beer country I have hoped for.
One more thing
to add, the situation is not just a Belgian problem. It is a problem of many
strong beer cultures. Germany, Czech Republic – those two countries suffer from
the same problem. And I know what am I saying – I have lived in Germany for 16
years.
So far for the
introduction.
MEET THE BREWER AT FERMENTHINGS
I have met Totem
almost exactly a year ago at the Brugges festival. All their beers were named
with Aztec gods. Seeing the description of their brews I have red few obvious
facts:
INNOVATION
FUN
ORIGINALITY
Sadly, during the whole year I have not really managed to get my hands on any more Totem beers. Totem simply does not have any distributors in the south of Belgium.
Sadly, during the whole year I have not really managed to get my hands on any more Totem beers. Totem simply does not have any distributors in the south of Belgium.
Recently in December,
at Fermenthings I have spotted some Totem beers, this time named by the Viking
gods and heroes. Used to be Aztecs. Intriguing.
Therefore, when
I have heard that Totem is coming for a brewer evening at Fermenthings – there was
no option. I just had to go. And with a support of the whole family I have
managed. This was worth it – the pair running the brewery are fun and
interesting to talk. Here is what I have learned.
- They agree with my view on Belgian beer. Most people drink strong, alcohol boosted Triples.
- Most of the innovation in European beer in the recent years comes from Poland and UK
- Totem beer is brewed for fun. So far Totem have never brewed the same beer twice. And they have the freedom to do whatever they want and do not need to fit into the expectations of the everyday, boring market.
- They are playful. In the first-year names were taken from Aztec gods, Recent wave is Vikings. Coming beers will be Chinese.
- And finally, a blast. For now, Totem was an unusual contract brewer – why unusual? Because they have found a contract brewery that have let them go inside and really brew their beer. Nevertheless, Totem is opening the first physical brewery this year. They have a building and the gear is coming in few weeks. Wish you good luck guys!
Now to the beer!
Sorted from the weakest one to the best!
HULDRA
everyday IPA
We start the
evening with an everyday IPA. Huldra in the Norse Mythology was a seductive forest
spirit. Is the beer from Totem seductive as well? With its 2.7% alcohol it
clearly fits in the low alc market that its recently booming. Also, I could
imagine that this is a beer for mass events - concerts, football games. It
still keeps all the characteristics of the IPA with some bitterness and
tropical fruit aromas, but I have the feeling that the low alcohol came with a
price of generally diluting the aroma and taste. I my opinion 1:100 IPA from
Kormoran did it better.
ST BILLIE
(collaboration with Tempel Brygghus)
hoppy sour
This time a sour
beer. Very interesting from me, because it was brewed extra for brewed extra
for Billies craft beer festival that I couldn’t attend. St Billie represents
the dry sour kind that I do not enjoy too much. It is hoppy I admit, but it is
mostly dry. Not everybody’s case.
HRIMR
azacca double
IPA
Hrmir (also
known as Hrimnir) is a giant
from the famous Volsunga saga of the Norse Mythology. And this IPA has gigantic
potential as well. Almost a modern classic. Traditional, American IPA. Peachy and
tangerine citrus aromas nicely complemented with pine notes. Good bitterness. Cloudy
look and modest carbonation. One of the cases where beer smells and tastes awesome.
Very good beer.
BLOOD MOON
RISING
(collaboration with Pontus and CraftBeerShirts)
Red Stout
Red Stout? WTF.
How do you do a red stout. The answer was simple – do a white stout and add
beetroot juice. The effects are more than interesting. You know that the beer
is red. With rather light body and medium carbonation. However, your nose and
taste tells you that this is a real stout, with coffee, chocolate and smoked
aromas. Very good one.
FAFNIR
beechwood
smoked stout
Fafnir was a son
of dwarf king, affected by the curse and turned in the dragon. Slain at the end
of the story. Still, I had some problem with connecting the name to the beer
this time. The best I could come with is that dragons are fire animals and
Fafnir is smoked stout. Anyway, that beer is amazing, black, thick, oily in
consistence. Low carbonation. Nose is mocha and umami. Taste is light smoked,
aromas of wood, chocolate and coffee. World class beer.
GERJUN GLUTUR
Palo Santo wild
ale
This beer was
brewed extra for this evening. And it is amazing. Combination of wild ale and
strong aromas of Palo Santo wood gave it really unique character. For the ones that
has never heard the name before – Palo Santo (Bursera graveolens), also called a holly wood, is very often used in
all kinds of scents, incenses, sticks and oils. There is a good chance you have
already tested the smell, if your partner is interested in this kind of things.
In case of beer Palo Santo gave pine and citrus aroma and strong vanilla flavor.
The whole thing was so well balanced, that I considered a beer an IPA and a
great one. Obviously not the first time that Totem brews out of the convention
and they are good at it. Another World Class Beer.