This visit was a complete shot in the dark. Dear
google, is there a craft beer in Nice, France?
And the last answer that I expected was “yes, there
is”.
Of course, I am aware of the fact, that Tim Webb
and Stephen Beaumont have listed in their World Atlas of Beer of beer over 700
breweries working in France. But I am also painfully aware of the fact that I
have NEVER, EVER had a good beer from France.
But there it was – a craft brewery (single one)
close to the center of Nice. This time, I was curious, so I have contacted the
master brewer Oliver Cautain and announced my visit.
Brewery by itself is located approximately 20 minutes’
walk from the center of the town (it may be good to check if they are open). It
may not be the great tourist region of Nice, but I felt safely all the way.
Brewery is clearly marked and easy to find.
If I was ever wondering whether the brewery is
popular in the area, I got already a first hint when doing the photo outside.
Some young couples were passing by, and have noticed me taking pictures; they got
interested what kind of tourist attraction here is worth a flash. The guy told
to his GF – “hey, look there is brewery, let us go it and see what they have”.
So, they did. Interestingly, the owner could convince them to also buy
something. I hope they will be back.
On the positive side, during my one hour stay in
the brewery/shop there was a constant flow of people, some of the arriving
there clearly just to get the beer they like.
(top left) Zytha bottled in "high class" way; (top right) Beer maturating in the bottles and waiting for its labels; (left) small exposition in the brewery shop.
Just to make one thing clear – this will not be an
interview, well at least not in the form the majority is used to. I have
chatted with Oliver for an hour or so. And here are the most important points
of what he has told me:
· I was always interested
in brewing. I did a home brewing before and then I have worked in California and
have noticed that many people do brew their own stuff. After coming back to
France, I have decided to leave my work and open a craft brewery.
· The brewery
was opened 1.5 years ago, In the beginning I was experimenting with a beer on
the smaller scale before I went to bigger tanks.
· I am not able
to produce the bitter beers (IPAs), local people would understand it. People
are used to a concern lagers like Heineken or Kornberg.
·
Price of my
beer is a problem. Locals can easily get commercial lagers in the shop for low
price. Therefore, my beers need to be sold with a minimal gain to get to the
market.
· Start was
hard, I was present on many local festivals to present people my beer. But, I have
worked myself a certain position. Last summer I was sold out, November seems to
rather down in comparison.
·
At the current
stage I no more must ask people if they want my beer, the restaurants are
asking by themselves to get some.
·
Recently, I started
experimenting with filling up the kegs, it looks good and this may be a next
thing I am doing.”
·
I try to do
beers using regional components – for example Zytha is brewed with the addition
of Aframomum melegueta (aka: grains of paradise or alligator pepper) a local
spice, I also use local strawberries for my saison. People like the addition of
the local components a lot.
BEER TASTING
ZYTHA
(blonde)
Finally, we came to the most important part which
was testing the beer – Oliver has served a blonde. For the ones that know me –
I do not like blondes that much. in their classical Belgian interpretation,
they are just boring (very close to lager on my private scale). But Oliver did
here something, for what I was asking already for a long time – add spices and
cold hopped. What an effect. A new life put in the boring style. A combination
of chickpeas and grains of paradise gave the beer a spicy aroma and taste very unusual
for the blonde but very welcome and tasty. And then, the cold hopping added
citrus note and welcome bitterness. Not too much, to not scare the people off,
but just enough to make it interesting even for me. Very good beer.
As the time was running by, I have purchased the
rest of Oliver’s beers and took them with me home (or rather take hotel). I
have tested them over the next few days. One clear message to everybody – Yes,
I know that this is an IPA glass, but, to my surprise hotels do not offer a big
variety of beer tasting accessories.
BLÚNA
(witbier with orange and coriander)
Disappointing at the beginning. Aroma is clearly and
heavy yeast, absolutely like what you would have expected from the beer of this
style. Belgians would love it – I thought. I was a bit disappointed, especially
that it had orange and coriander in the name. I was close to pour Blúna to the
sink but then my telephone rang. I have spent several minutes on the discussion
with somebody and after this time I have tried again. Well, it was much better.
Yeast aroma was mostly gone and the citrus aroma was there, I still do not get
any coriander, even after warming Bluna in my hands, but an orange flavor in
the style makes it much more interesting that I thought before. Still the weakest
one in the offer.
COUGOURDOUN
(biere rousse/pumpkin ale)
Limited
edition beer with cinnamon, ginger, Myristica
fragrans, cloves
Star anise.
Uuuha, this sound heroic.
Can the mixture like that go well?
To my surprise this beer is exactly what it
promises. Very aromatic and spicy in both aroma and taste. So many spices that
it tickles the tongue. It is a spice bomb. Combined with a solid carbonation
and some hops it is one of the most refreshing beers I have ever had. It kicks
ass. Best pumpkin ale I have had this year.
HOPSTOCK
(amber ale)
It is one of the beers that tease your taste buds and
make you drink them in no time. Delicate aroma and hoppy flavour of Cascade,
well balanced with malt. Tropical fruits aroma. Looks great. Huge, beige head
that just goes with the beer as you drink. Not too much carbonation. I cannot
imagine, what else I would like to have in a beer. OK, it could have been
having 200 IBU. Just kidding. This is a perfect composition, a real pleasure to
drink.
Even better, Oliver's policy of not overdoing with hops will make this one acceptable for almost anybody. Please enjoy.
KICE
(saison with strawberries)
Last, but not least. A saison that have been made
with local strawberries. I have never tasted strawberries from the area, but
based on this beer – they must be crazily sweet. And sugar will be processed by
the yeast. What is left is rather blunt saison with a tiny aroma of
strawberries and huge amount of foam coming out. And I mean it. Huge foam. It is
not a head it’s a Vesuvius brought back to life in the bottle of beer. Some
strawberries flavor is still there as well.
I was hoping for some sour notes and an overall
refreshing product. Sadly, it is not there. After consideration – it is not a
bad saison, just not as good as it could be.
STOUT...
And at the end - a gift I have got. It’s a
chocolate stout made by Oliver. This beer is still maturating and is not even being
sold yet. For the identification Oliver have used the label from the last year.
I will try to replace it on the picture as soon as I get a new label.
I plan to test it in January/February and hope for the best.
Thanks a
lot Oliver.
